Congregation Ohav Sholom

Acco is situated at the northern tip of Haifa Bay. In 1191, during the Third Crusade, Richard the Lion-hearted, king of England, landed in the Holy Land and together with his forces, reconquered parts of the coastal plain from the Muslims, who under the leadership of Saladin, a mere four years earlier had driven out the Crusaders. Richard made Acco the capital of the Holy Land.

Like Jerusalem, Acco is a walled city. But its proximity to the sea gives Acco an entirely different feel to it than Jerusalem. The sea and marina, filled with fishing boats, provide an attractive backdrop for those touring the city, so much so that brides and grooms can be seen being photographed here in the late afternoon, before their wedding ceremonies are to begin in some other area of Haifa, Acco or in between.

One of the more interesting buildings in Acco is The Khan. The Khan is an excellent example of Middle Eastern architecture. It functioned as an inn, where traders would stay overnight, with camels or other animals resting in a large courtyard in the middle of the rectangular shaped structure. The building, with its numerous arches is still pleasant to look at although the Khan is no longer in use today.

A well-known seafood restaurant, Abu Cristo is situated near the marina, overlooking the bay. Diners can watch the waves crash into the walls of the Crusader harbor, providing a unique atmosphere.

The main attraction in Acco, however, is the Crusader city and fortress. You can rent a headphone or telephone-like gadget, which explains the various rooms of the fortress, by pressing a certain button, depending on which room you’re in. The fortress is enormous and much work still remains. Many areas and rooms are off limits, because they are in the process of being restored.

It was this same Crusader fortress which later served as a prison during the British Mandate, the fortress from which members of the Jewish underground escaped prior to the War of Independence. Of course the escape became even more legendary from Leon Uris’ book, "Exodus" and from the movie of the same name, starring Paul Newman. Today, a sign hangs on the section of the fortress wall that was blown away in the escape.

With the plethora of archaeological sites in Israel, some dating more than 1500 years before the Crusader period, one has a tendency to overlook Crusader sites. After all, 700 years ago is almost current, relatively speaking. Despite this, history buffs, those fascinated by the Middle Ages and those who are interested in the history of our land in general, cannot overlook the Crusader era. It was a time of tremendous upheaval and building throughout Eretz Yisrael. Merchants from all over the Mediterranean gathered in Acco to trade and the port of Acco became a conduit for goods from the East to the West.

Acco, the former Crusader capital, should be an extremely impressive site in the future. In the meantime it’s a work-in-progress.

November 1999